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Front Suspension 

Because the steering rack had to be moved to the front, the car now became front steer, which meant a front steer rack and pinion now had to be used. This also necessitated that the spindles now would also have to steer from the front. What do I use. The 924/944 rack and pinion is front steer so that is a logical choice, but will it work and how will I mount it. After taking measurements it was determined that this was a good candidate. Then came the decision of how to mount it, where to place it, will it clear the side of the pan, will the angle of the steering be too extreme and cause it to bind.
So many hours of thinking and measuring took place to find the right point. In order to keep the bump steer down the rack had to be placed as close as possible to the front of the oil pan, but this would still leave the tie rods on an angle to the spindles. I thought about recessing the front of the pan so that the rack could be mounted back further but that was out of the question. There isn't any room in the pan to allow that, so as I mentioned earlier a trade off will have to occur. The r&p also cannot be centered in the car as it needs to be because of the oil pan. The steering shaft location means that it the r&p will have to be mounted 2" to the right which is really going to mess up your steering radius, especially right turns. My solution to the problem was to extend the shaft on the right side by 2". This is a simple fix but it took me awhile too finally figure out that that is what I needed to do to correct the problem. I took a r&p out of a rabbit that was laying around, hollowed out the end that pivioted so the the shaft could now fit inside it. Then I shortened the shaft where the threads are and placed it inside the now non-pivoting end and welded them together. I now had a 2" extension and my steering problems were solved.

extension.jpg

Since the spindles are now swapped side to side is this going to affect steering, caster or camber? The answer is no. The angle of the upper and lower spindle mounting points is 0. That one was easy. So what do you do with the  axel stub since it isn't FWD anymore and there are no longer CV joints? Another easy one. Just remove the CV joint from the axel stub and torque it on as you would normally. Depending on the angle of your tie rod ends will determine if they will be able to be put in the original location or mounted on the opposite side.  If they can't be mounted in the original location you will have to get a tapered reamer and ream out the other side so that the tie rod end will bolt up normally. The tie rods themselves will also have to be lenghtened or shortened accordingly.

I originally wanted to use the 944 fronts usupension but it was soon determined that the 944 struts were on a different angle than that of the golf. This in turn would mean more cutting of the structure and welding in the 944 strut towers and I wanted to avoid that. It just wasn't worth it.